Common Roofs in North Texas
In the DFW metroplex—from Keller and Fort Worth to Southlake and beyond—the three most common roofs I inspect: asphalt (composition) shingles, clay or concrete tile, and metal panel roofs. Hot summers, occasional hail, strong winds, and the mix of older and newer construction make your roof one of the most important systems a home inspector evaluates. Understanding the differences helps buyers avoid expensive surprises and helps owners plan maintenance and replacement wisely.
Asphalt (Fiberglass/Composition) Shingles
The most common roof covering in North Texas.
Modern asphalt shingles are almost always fiberglass-based (also called composition shingles). Older organic felt-based versions still appear on some homes but are less common.
Common styles you’ll see:
Three-tab strip shingles — Flat profile, usually the least expensive, often with a 20-year warranty.
Dimensional (architectural) shingles — Raised profile for better curb appeal, typically 25–30 year warranties.
Laminated shingles — Multiple layers bonded together for a thicker, more pronounced look and longer warranties (often 35+ years).
Key installation and performance points:
Minimum recommended slope is generally 2:12 (2 inches vertically per 12 inches horizontally)
Proper underlayment (felt or synthetic), ice-barrier where required, drip edge, and correct nailing are critical.
Weight typically ranges from about 200 lbs per square (100 sq ft) for lighter three-tab to over 400 lbs for some laminated products. Multiple layers add significant dead load.
What home buyers and owners should watch for:
Granule loss, exposed fiberglass, curling, or a stiff/dry feel.
Missing or damaged tabs from wind, hail, foot traffic, or tree limbs.
Improper nail placement or quantity, exposed fasteners, or nails above the seal strip.
Three or more layers of shingles (two is sometimes allowed but not ideal).
Dimensional or laminated shingles used as ridge/cap shingles.
Poor offset between courses.
Roof penetrations or flashing issues in valleys.
In North Texas, UV exposure and hail are the main longevity factors. Regular visual checks from the ground and after storms help catch problems early.
Clay and Concrete Tile Roofs
Less common than asphalt but popular on Mediterranean, Spanish, and higher-end homes in the area.
Clay tiles are made from clay and other materials that affect color, hardness, and durability. Concrete tiles use Portland cement, sand/aggregate, and pigments or surface color. Common shapes include Spanish (S-shape), Mission (pan and cover/C-shape), and flat interlocking styles. Each system has matching ridge, rake, and accessory pieces.
Important characteristics:
Service life of the tiles themselves can reach 100 years or more under good conditions. The underlayment usually fails first and often needs replacement far sooner (sometimes as little as 20 years in harsh climates).
These are heavy systems—roughly 600–1,100+ lbs per 100 square feet depending on the product. Framing must be designed (or evaluated by an engineer) to carry the load. You cannot simply replace a lighter roof covering with a heavier one.
Underlayment is critical—the waterproof layer that actually keeps water out. At least #30 felt (or better) is common; double underlayment is often used on lower slopes. Drip edge, proper lapping, and protection at rakes matter.
Tiles can be fastened with nails, screws, wire ties, clips, or battens. Perimeter tiles (eaves, ridges, rakes) almost always need fastening. Head lap is important for water shedding (often ≥3 inches or per manufacturer).
What to look for:
Cracked, broken, or slipped tiles.
Underlayment condition (especially visible at eaves, valleys, or where tiles are missing).
Valley flashing details (open vs. closed/mitered; metal flashing length and installation).
Fastening method and whether perimeter tiles are secure.
Evidence of water absorption, freeze-thaw damage, or spalling.
Proper clearance and flashing at penetrations—valleys should not be penetrated by vents or plumbing.
Clay tiles are more brittle and can break under impact or foot traffic; many inspectors avoid walking them unless trained and necessary. Concrete tiles are generally tougher. Hail and tree debris are real concerns in North Texas.
Metal Panel Roofs
Metal panel roofs are one of the more durable roof coverings we see during home inspections across the DFW metroplex. When installed correctly, they can last 50 years or more and handle our Texas weather well. Here’s a practical breakdown of what they are, how they’re installed, and the issues I most often find in the field.
How Metal Panels Are Installed
You’ll usually see one of three systems:
Standing seam – Panels lock together with raised vertical seams that are crimped.
Sealed seam – Seams are lapped, fastened, and sealed with a manufacturer-approved sealant.
Lapped (non-sealed) seam – Panels simply overlap and are fastened with screws or rivets.
Underlayment is not always required under metal panels unless the manufacturer or local code calls for it. Condensation can form between the metal and the sheathing if no underlayment is present—this sometimes looks like a roof leak even when the panels themselves are intact.
What home buyers and owners should watch for:
Loose or missing fasteners (especially on lapped-seam roofs)
Worn or peeling protective coatings
Rusted or deteriorated panels
Dented or damaged panels
Opened, damaged, or poorly sealed seams
A well-maintained metal panel roof is a strong selling point—longevity and resistance to high winds and hail are real advantages in North Texas. However, the quality of the installation and the condition of the fasteners and seams matter more than the age alone.
Ready to schedule a home inspection?
Contact us today at (817) 518-2220 or book online at FisherHomeInspections.com. Whether buying, selling, or maintaining your current home, we’re here to help keep your family safe.
— Kyle Fisher, Professional Home Inspector
serving all of DFW and North Texas
